Mar 31, 2011
Jan 21, 2011
Jun 28, 2010
Jan 22, 2010
Sep 27, 2009
Sep 2, 2009
Jul 20, 2009
Jul 16, 2009
http://www.horses-and-horse-information.com/horsebreeds.shtml Popular Breeds of Horses Around the World
American Quarter Horse - Versatile, popular equine breed that's great for new riders.
American Saddlebred Horse - Result of selective breeding of four breeds of horses.
American Standardbred Horse - Most of this breed complete a mile race in 3 minutes.
Appaloosa Horse - This horse's spotted coat and fur is its most recognize characteristic.
Arabian Horse - Arabians are know for being affectionate and a dished head profile.
Clydesdale Horses - Known for their large frames and study working abilities.
Ponies - Distinctive pony breed (breeding two ponies) & is less than 14.2 hand high.
Hanoverian Horse - This breed of horse excels in jumping, dressage, and eventing.
Missouri Fox Trotter - Breed named after its unusual gait and smooth movement.
Morgan Horse - Historically the official horse breed of the United States.
Palomino Horse - Breed admired for their beauty, versatility, & endurance.
Peruvian Paso / Paso Fino - Breed known for an easy ride on rocky terrain.
Tennessee Walking Horse - Distinct breed with no trot - only a "running walk."
Thoroughbred Horse - Horse of choice for racing and speed related equestrian sports.
Miniature Horses - Miniature Horse Breed Makes a Great Household Pet.
Pinto Horses - Their coloring provided a degree of natural camouflage.
Mustang Horses - Mustangs can range in size of between 13 and 16 hands.
This short article will be useful to you as it explains some basic principles in a simple, easy, engaging fashion. Hope you like it.
While most people realize they will need a saddle to ride their horses, they may not be aware of all the reasons why they should use a saddle instead of riding bareback. Saddles are often more comfortable than riding bareback, since many horses have bony backs. A saddle also is safer than riding bareback, since the stirrups and pommel provide some support for beginning riders. For Western riders, saddles are like an extra hand, since the saddle horn can easily be used to hold ropes.
To get a rough idea of whether a saddle will fit your horse, you should measure the width of his back. Then, measure the width of the inside of the saddle you are considering. If the widths are similar, the saddle may fit your horse. However, be sure you talk to your feed and tack supplier about whether you can exchange the saddle for a different model if it is too small or too large for the horse or is uncomfortable for you.
Before you make the decision to keep your saddle, talk to an experienced horse lover about the fit of the saddle, since there are several spots where the saddle can be too small or too large for your horse. If you can't find someone to help you evaluate the fit of the saddle, the rule of thumb is that you should be able to fit three fingers under the front of the saddle between the horse's shoulders and the pommel, but not your entire hand.
As you've seen from the article you're reading, we have tried to compile the very best resources from across the Internet on this topic - build the ultimate destination that'll attract you and others interested in the subject.
You should also be sure that the saddle doesn't keep the horse from moving easily by blocking the movement of his shoulders and you should be sure the saddle isn't too narrow or too wide. Some people think that if they cannot fasten the cinch, which is the strap that passes from one side of the saddle, around the horse's belly, and then fastens to the other side of the saddle, the saddle is too small. However, whether a saddle cinches or not actually has nothing to do with whether it fits your horse's back. You can actually shop for a longer cinch to use with the saddle.
Of all the types of tack, saddles are the most expensive and have the largest selection of styles. Of course, just like with bridles and bits, saddles are broken into two main classifications, English and Western. However, there is a third option, the endurance saddle, which is a blend of the English and Western saddle designs.
English saddles are either hunt seat saddles, dressage saddles or show saddles. Most people use hunt seat saddles with their horses, since these saddles are fairly versatile, and can be used for riding, jumping or beginning dressage, although you may not be able to compete in dressage events with a hunt seat saddle. Dressage saddles are fairly similar to hunt seat saddles, but have slight design variations. Show saddles are noticeably different than the other two English saddles. There is no knee roll and these saddles have a very small rise in the rear, or cantle.
Western saddles only have one main style. However, these saddles can be very plain in appearance or incredibly elaborate. Western saddles that are used in parades or rodeo events are often even covered in jewels and precious metals. The major differences between the Western and the English saddle are the horn, the much deeper seat, and the longer stirrups of the Western saddle.
No matter which saddle you choose, you will need to be sure to keep it clean and in good repair. After all, the only thing more expensive than your new horse may very well be your saddle!
That's it for now. You see, we've tried to compile the very best information on this topic - and put it into a form useful to anyone like you who is interested in the subject.
I'd really appreciate your feedback - please let me know what you think about it. It will help us create even more valuable content for you in the future.
Jul 11, 2009
Jun 11, 2009
Jun 7, 2009
Why you should watch your horse's wait http://ezinearticles.com/?Horse-Facts---Why-You-Should-Watch-Your-Horses-Weight&id=1037584
As a horse owner you have to be confident that you are checking for the right things and taking action to rectify problems that may go wrong before they become an issue. You must make sure that you are doing whatever is necessary to ensure that your horse is growing healthily, and being brought on in a way that gives him everything he needs to develop into the best horse he can be. You have to pay close attention to your horse as he develops There are many things that can go wrong and he can't tell you. You need to know him well enough to spot them. If you haven't owned a horse before, you should get some suitable books and read up on them, then spend some time at your local stables talking to the people who care for the horses, rather than just going for a ride, talk to other horse owners and to your vet. Find out what you need to look for, make yourself familiar with the common problems. If you don't know what to watch for, you might not be able to recognise the symptoms.
Your horse's weight is always a good indicator of how healthy he is. There are many different breeds of horse, and they differ in size within the breed, but when you own a horse, you should find out from your vet some idea of the ideal weight, If you suspect your horse may have a problem, check his weight. Even if you don't have any concerns it does no harm to weigh him regularly and make a note of any fluctuations. You will spot dramatic changes quite easily but a steady decline might only show up with a regular 'weigh in'. If your horse loses a lot of weight in a week or so, it is a fair indicator that something is wrong, and you must contact your Vet immediately.
With most animals, and horses are no exception, sicknesses can develop in no time, and they can become too ill to save almost before you have noticed that anything is amiss. Even a small weight change over a short period can indicate a problem before it is full blown, especially if his eating habits change. If your horse is being weighed on a regular basis, you will be able to tell if there's a problem relatively quickly. If you can weigh your horse on a regular basis, you are going to have a very much better chance of spotting anything that goes wrong which, in an extreme case, could save your horse's life. Most good stables have a scale, if you stable your horse at home speak to the owners of the local stables and arrange to use theirs. Failing that you can always use a public weighbridge, it's not ideal but it's better than nothing.
This is a very simple precaution but it will contribute to the well being of your horse with little effort on your part, and you should have many happy years of riding out together.
Western Gaits http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ei=U14sSv_kGqOMtgPs_4ywCw&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=how+many+gates+(walk,+trot,+canter
The walk, a four-beat gaitThe walk is a four-beat gait that averages about 4 miles per hour (6.4 km/h). When walking, a horse's legs follow this sequence: left hind leg, left front leg, right hind leg, right front leg, in a regular 1-2-3-4 beat. At the walk, the horse will always have one foot raised and the other three feet on the ground, save for a brief moment when weight is being transferred from one foot to another. A horse moves its head and neck in a slight up and down motion that helps maintain balance.
Ideally, the advancing rear hoof oversteps the spot where the previously advancing front hoof touched the ground. The more the rear hoof oversteps, the smoother and more comfortable the walk becomes. Individual horses and different breeds vary in the smoothness of their walk. However, a rider will almost always feel some degree of gentle side-to-side motion in the horse's hips as each hind leg reaches forward.
The fastest walk is the hereditary "running walk" of the Tennessee Walking Horse, described under "Ambling gaits" below. If a horse begins to speed up and lose a regular cadence to its gait, the horse is no longer walking, but is beginning to either trot or move into an alternative ambling or "singlefoot" gait.
The trot, a two-beat gait involving diagonal pairs of legs. The two legs with white stockings are off the ground.Main article: Trot (horse gait)
The trot is a two-beat gait that has a wide variation in possible speeds, but averages about 8 miles per hour (13 km/h), or, very roughly, about the same speed as a healthy human can run. A very slow trot is sometimes referred to as a jog. An extremely fast trot has no special name, but in harness racing, the trot of a Standardbred is faster than the gallop of the average non-racehorse.
In this gait, the horse moves its legs in unison in diagonal pairs. From the standpoint of the balance of the horse, this is a very stable gait, and the horse need not make major balancing motions with its head and neck.
The trot is the working gait for a horse. Despite what one sees in movies, horses can only canter and gallop for short periods at a time, after which they need time to rest and recover. Horses in good condition can maintain a working trot for hours. The trot is the main way horses travel quickly from one place to the next.
Depending on the horse and its speed, a trot can be difficult for a rider to sit because the body of the horse actually drops a bit between beats and bounces up again when the next set of legs strike the ground. Each time another diagonal pair of legs hits the ground, the rider can be jolted upwards out of the saddle and meet the horse with some force on the way back down. Therefore, at most speeds above a jog, especially in English riding disciplines, most riders post to the trot, rising up and down in rhythm with the horse to avoid being jolted. Posting is easy on the horse's back, and once mastered is also easy on the rider.
To not be jostled out of the saddle and to not harm the horse by bouncing on its back, riders must learn specific skills in order to sit the trot. Most riders can easily learn to sit a slow jog trot without bouncing. A skilled rider can ride even a powerfully extended trot without bouncing, but to do so requires well-conditioned back and stomach muscles, and to do so for long periods is tiring for even experienced riders. A fast, uncollected, racing trot, such as that of the harness racing horse, is virtually impossible to sit.
Because the trot is such a safe and efficient gait for a horse, learning to ride the trot correctly is an important component in almost all equestrian disciplines. Nonetheless, "gaited" or "ambling" horses that possess smooth 4-beat intermediate gaits that replace or supplement the trot (see "ambling gaits" below), are popular with riders who prefer for various reasons not to have to ride at a trot.
In 1892, Leland Stanford settled an argument about whether trotting horses were ever fully airborne: he paid photographer Eadweard Muybridge to prove it photographically. The resulting photo, the first documented example of high-speed photography, clearly showed the horse airborne.
Two variations of the trot are specially trained in advanced dressage horses: the Piaffe and the Passage. The Piaffe is essentially created by asking the horse to trot in place, with very little forward motion. The Passage (rhymes with "massage") is an exaggerated slow motion trot. Both require tremendous collection, careful training and considerable physical conditioning for a horse to perform.
 Canter and gallop
Main article: Canter
An Andalusian performing the canter. The left hind and right fore will land at the same moment, creating three beats in the stride. This horse is on the left lead, as the left rear and right fore are moving together, with the left hind leading the right hind. As the left fore lands, it will be in front of the right fore.
The canter is a controlled, three-beat gait that usually is a bit faster than the average trot, but slower than the gallop. The average speed of a canter is between 16-27 km/h (10-17 mph), depending on the length of the stride of the horse. Listening to a horse canter, one can usually hear the three beats as though a drum had been struck three times in succession. Then there is a rest, and immediately afterwards the three-beat occurs again. The faster the horse is moving, the longer the suspension time between the three beats.
In the canter, one of the horse's rear legs – the right rear leg, for example – propels the horse forward. During this beat, the horse is supported only on that single leg while the remaining three legs are moving forward. On the next beat the horse catches itself on the left rear and right front legs while the other hind leg is still momentarily on the ground. On the third beat, the horse catches itself on the left front leg while the diagonal pair is momentarily still in contact with the ground.
The more extended foreleg is matched by a slightly more extended hind leg on the same side. This is referred to as a "lead". Except in special cases, such as the counter-canter, it is desirable for a horse to lead with its inside legs when on a circle. Therefore, a horse that begins cantering with the right rear leg as described above will have the left front and hind legs each land farther forward. This would be referred to as being on the "left lead".
When a rider is added to the horse's natural balance, the question of the lead becomes more important. When riding in an enclosed area such as an arena, the correct lead provides the horse with better balance. The rider typically signals the horse which lead to take when moving from a slower gait into the canter. In addition, when jumping over fences, the rider typically signals the horse to land on the correct lead to approach the next fence or turn. The rider can also request the horse to deliberately take up the wrong lead (counter-canter), a move required in some dressage competitions and routine in polo, which requires a degree of collection and balance in the horse. The switch from one lead to another while moving in a straight line is called the "flying lead change" or "flying change". This switch is also a feature of dressage and reining schooling and competition.
If a horse is leading with one front foot but the opposite hind foot, it produces an awkward rolling movement, called a cross-canter, disunited canter or "cross-firing."
The word is thought to be short for "Canterbury gallop", but it may alternatively come from an expression meaning "corner-gallop".
See also: lead (leg) and lead change
The suspension phase, seen in the canter and the gallop
Le derby d'Epsom, painting by Théodore Géricault, 1821The gallop is very much like the canter, except that it is faster, more ground-covering, and the three-beat canter changes to a four-beat gait. It is the fastest gait of the horse, averaging about 25 to 30 miles per hour (40 to 48 km/h), and in the wild is used when the animal needs to flee from predators or simply cover short distances quickly. Horses seldom will gallop more than a mile or two before they need to rest, though horses can sustain a moderately-paced gallop for longer distances before they become winded and have to slow down.
The gallop is also the gait of the classic race horse. Modern Thoroughbred horse races are seldom longer than a mile and a half, though in some countries Arabian horses are sometimes raced as far as two and a half miles. The fastest galloping speed is achieved by the American quarter horse, which in a short sprint of a quarter mile or less has been clocked at speeds approaching 55 miles per hour (89 km/h).
Like a canter, the horse will strike off with its non-leading hind foot; but the second stage of the canter becomes, in the gallop, the second and third stages because the inside hind foot hits the ground a split second before the outside front foot. Then both gaits end with the striking off of the leading leg, followed by a moment of suspension when all four feet are off the ground. A careful listener or observer can tell an extended canter from a gallop by the presence of the fourth beat.
Contrary to the old "classic" paintings of running horses, which showed all four legs stretched out in the suspension phase, when the legs are stretched out, at least one foot is still in contact with the ground. When all four feet are off the ground in the suspension phase of the gallop, the legs are bent rather than extended.
According to Equix, who analyzed the biometrics of racing thoroughbreds, the average racing colt has a stride length of 24.6 feet; that of Secretariat, for instance, was 24.8 feet, which was probably part of his success.
A controlled gallop used to show a horse's ground-covering stride in horse show competition is called a "gallop in hand" or a hand gallop.
Note that when a horse jumps over a fence, the legs are stretched out while in the air, and the front legs hit the ground before the hind legs, which is completely different from the suspended phase of a gallop. Essentially, the horse takes the first two steps of a galloping stride on the take-off side of the fence, and the other two steps on the landing side. A horse has to collect its hindquarters after a jump to strike off into the next stride.
PaceThe Pace is a lateral two-beat gait. In the pace, the two legs on the same side of the horse move forward together, unlike the trot, where the two legs diagonally opposite from each other move forward together. In both the pace and the trot, two feet are always off the ground. The trot is much more common, but some horses, particularly in breeds bred for harness racing, naturally prefer to pace. Pacers are also faster than trotters on the average, though horses are raced at both gaits. Among standardbred horses, pacers breed truer than trotters – that is, trotting sires have a higher proportion of pacers among their get than pacing sires do of trotters.
A slow pace can be relatively comfortable, as the rider is lightly rocked from side to side. A slightly uneven pace that is somewhat between a pace and an amble, is the sobreandando of the Peruvian Paso. On the other hand, a slow pace is considered undesirable in an Icelandic horse, where it is called a lull or a "piggy-pace".
With one exception, a fast pace is uncomfortable for riding and very difficult to sit, because the rider is moved rapidly from side to side. The motion feels somewhat as if the rider is on a camel, another animal that naturally paces. However, a camel is much taller than a horse and so even at relatively fast speeds, a rider can follow the rocking motion of a camel. A pacing horse, being smaller and taking quicker steps, moves from side to side at a rate that becomes difficult for a rider to follow at speed, so though the gait is faster and useful for harness racing, it become impractical as a gait for riding at speed over long distances. However, in the case of the Icelandic horse, where the pace is known as the skeið, "flying pace" or flugskeið, it is a smooth and highly valued gait, ridden in short bursts at great speed.
A horse that paces and is not used in harness is often taught to perform some form of amble, obtained by lightly unbalancing the horse so the footfalls of the pace break up into a four beat lateral gait that is smoother to ride. A rider cannot properly post to a pacing horse because there is no diagonal gait pattern to follow, though some riders attempt to avoid jostling by rhythmically rising and sitting.
 "Ambling" gaits
Main article: Ambling
Icelandic horse at the tölt
Tennessee Walking Horse at the running walkThere are a significant number of four-beat intermediate gaits. Though there are differences in footfall patterns and speed, historically they were once grouped together and collectively referred to as the "amble." Today, especially in the United States, horses that are able to do an ambling gait are referred to as "gaited."
All ambling gaits are faster than a walk but usually slower than a canter. They are smoother for a rider than either a trot or a pace and most can be sustained for relatively long periods of time, making them particularly desirable for trail riding and other tasks where a rider must spend long periods of time in the saddle. There are two basic types: lateral, wherein the front and hind feet on the same side move in sequence, and diagonal, where the front and hind feet on opposite sides move in sequence.
Not all horses can perform an ambling gait. However, many breeds can be trained to produce them, and there are several breeds of horses who inherit the ability to perform these gaits either naturally from birth or with a minimal amount of training.
The major ambling gaits include:
The fox trot is most often associated with the Missouri Foxtrotter breed, but is also seen under different names in other gaited breeds. The fox trot is a four-beat diagonal gait in which the front foot of the diagonal pair lands before the hind.
"Paso" gaits include a range of smooth intermediate lateral ambling gaits characteristic of the Peruvian Paso and Paso Fino. The Paso Fino's speed variations are called (from slowest to fastest) the paso fino, paso corto, and paso largo. The Peruvian Paso has a lateral gait known as the "Paso Llano," which is characterized by an elongated and lateral motion of the front shoulder known as "Termino."
The rack or racking is a lateral gait most commonly associated with the Five-Gaited American Saddlebred. In the rack, the speed is increased to be approximately that of the pace, but it is a four-beat gait with equal intervals between each beat.
The Running Walk, a four-beat lateral gait with footfalls in the same sequence as the regular walk, but characterized by greater speed and smoothness. It is a distinctive natural gait of the Tennessee Walking Horse.
The slow gait is a general term for several slightly different lateral gaits that follow the same general footfall pattern in that lateral pairs of legs move forward in sequence, but the rhythm and collection of the movements are different. Terms for various slow gaits include the stepping pace and singlefoot.
The Tölt (also, less correctly, Tolt) is a gait that is often described as being unique to the Icelandic Horse. In its pure form, the footfalls are the same as in rack, but the Icelandic horse is bred for more freedom and liquidity of movement. Some breeds of horses that are related to the Icelandic horse, living in the Faroe Islands and Norway, also tölt.
May 31, 2009
The canter, or lope, is the fastest of the three gaits. It's a three-beat gait where in one stride the horse's hooves will strike the ground three times.
Step 1 Tack your horse with English or Western tack. You should be wearing a helmet.
Step 2 Mount your horse.
Step 3 Sit with your shoulders back, head up and looking forward.
Step 4 Keep 60 percent of your weight in the stirrups and 40 percent in the seat.
Step 5 Allow the horse to walk to get forward movement.
Step 6 Apply slight pressure with both your legs to keep the horse moving forward.
Step 7 Use your leg that's opposite the leg you want your horse to lead with (to get your horse to lead with its right leg, use your left leg, and vice versa). Maintain pressure with that leg while moving it back 6 inches and removing your other leg from the horse so it is no longer touching the horse. This will help it pick up the proper lead (leading with the correct leg).
Step 8 Cluck or kiss to the horse to get it to go forward.
Step 9 Continue the pressure with the outside leg and clucking until the horse canters.
Step 10 Maintain slight pressure with the outside leg while cantering to keep the horse moving forward and on the proper lead.
Step 11 Remember to breathe. Holding your breath creates tension in your body that the horse picks up on.
Step 12 Relax and get in the flow of the horse's movements.
Tips & Warnings
Cantering is the English name and loping is the Western name for this gait.In order to get your horse to move the proper lead leg it must be trained to move away from pressure.Give the horse enough rein to move its head. If you hold its head too tightly it won't be able to get moving.Allow a horse to warm up sufficiently by walking and trotting before cantering or loping.Keep your butt in contact with the saddle by allowing your pelvis to move forward and back in rhythm with the horse.Check the girth (cinch) to make sure it is sufficiently tight before mounting. You should be able to slip two fingers between the horse and the girth (cinch) without much difficulty. A girth (cinch) that is too loose will cause the saddle to slip.If your horse is confused and not responding to your leg cues, make sure the horse understands leg pressure and knows to move away from pressure created by one leg or the other.Do not attempt to canter (lope) a horse that hasn't learned to yield to pressure from the bit.If your horse runs away with you, relax, stay calm, and pull one (or one side) of the reins out to the side so your arm is extended out away from your hip. Hold the rein in that position. This should get the horse to turn in a circle, which will naturally force the horse to slow down. Practice this escape route at the walk and trot before attempting to canter.
Although walking may seem simple, it is important to cue your horse correctly. Remember, you can't gallop until you can walk.
Mount your horse. Horses are generally trained to be mounted from the left side. If this is your first time on a horse, take a deep breath and relax.
Pick up the reins; this is called "addressing" the reins. Make sure that they're short enough that you can stop the horse, but not so short that you're continually tugging at the horse's mouth. There should be a bit of slack in them. If you're riding a horse who knows how to neck rein, or is in a curb bit, you'll want to make sure there's even more slack in the reins. Ask someone who is knowledgable to show you if you're unsure.
Check your stirrups. Make sure they are not too short or too long. The correct length will generally allow the bottom of the stirrup to be even with your ankle when your leg is relaxed. If you're checking from the ground, place your hand on the saddle above the point where the stirrup is attached; the stirrup should be just long enough to fit below your arm.
Give your horse the first aid. Press your lower leg against the horse. If he doesn't move, give him a light tap with your heel and say "Walk". If he still doesn't move, give him a harder tap with your heel while making a clucking noise. When you give a horse a command, first you request; then you order; finally, you make them do it.
When the horse starts walking, remember to relax! Sit up straight and let your weight sink into the saddle. Imagine that there is a bowling ball inside you, approximately at the point of your navel, and its weight is keeping you in the saddle. Allow your hips to move with the motion of the horse. You should feel your horse pushing you left, then right.
To stop, imagine the bowling ball sinking down even further. Think "stop." If the horse continues, don't panic; just give a light tug on the reins.
Give your horse a stroke and yourself a pat on the back. When you feel comfortable with walking a horse, ask someone how to trot a horse!
If you're bouncing, you're going too fast. Think "slow down" and pull back slightly on the reins.
Remember to relax and feel the motion through your hips. Keep your lower legs loose.
Move with the horse and not the saddle pretend you are a sack of potatoes, by that we mean RELAX but still keep your position.
to make a horse trot, simply squezze your heels against the horses sides and cluck with you tongue. if the horse is stubborn, give it a light kick in the sides
To make a horse trot, you must lightly kick the horse, and it should get going. If not, give it a tap on the rump with a crop (whip) and kick a bit harder.
The aids for trot are:
Shorten your reins
Half halt (squeeze gently down the outside rein)
Talking to the horse
Once in trot if you know what your diaganals are, you check them, steady up your trot and there you have it!
May 30, 2009
May 21, 2009
ALWAYS check your horse's girth or cinch just before mounting, no matter who saddled the horse. It should be very snug - two fingers should fit between the girth and the horse's side. Less is too tight, more is too loose. If it's too loose your weight could pull the saddle to one side when you mount, and the horse could be startled, but if it's too tight, some skin could get caught and it could be uncomfortable.
Take the reins in your left hand, making certain that one rein is on each side of your horse's head.
Positioning the reinsPlace your left hand on the the horse's mane, grabbing a handful of mane.
If this is your first time, or you feel uncertain, place your right hand towards the rear of the saddle. To avoid pulling your saddle sideways (which shouldn't happen if you tightened your girth correctly), consider putting your right hand on the pommel (the front of the saddle), and using your elbow on the cantle (the back of the saddle) for leverage.
Place your left foot into the stirrup. Bounce 3 times on the ball of your foot that is still on the mounting block, this will give you enough momentum to bounce and spring up into the saddle.
Foot in the stirrupSwing your right leg up and over the saddle, while stepping up with your left leg. It will feel similar to climbing a large stair. Try to land gently - don't just thump onto the horse's back!
Don't disregard this step
Up and over...You should now be seated in the saddle.
Not quite ready to go. The rider should center herself on the horse so as to achieve maximum balance.
 TipsAfter saddling your horse, walk them around a little before you attempt to mount them, and then re-tighten the girth/cinch. Some stubborn horses will bloat [fill up their lungs with air] so that the girth/cinch will be loose. Walking the horse a little will force them to let the air out.
If you are inexperienced or your horse tends to walk off as soon as you put a foot in the stirrup, have another rider hold the horse's reins for you. This will help keep the horse still while you mount.
If your horse starts to move, give the command of "Whoa" in a deep, calm voice.
If the horse consistently evades being mounted, break down each step and praise the horse when they stand still. (start on the ground, then each step of the mounting block, touching the saddle, putting your foot in the stirrup, jumping up and finally getting all the way on) A well trained horse should stand for being mounted and wait for your command to walk off.
If you're short, consider using a mounting block or other sturdy object - buckets and crates are often not sturdy enough.
Have an experienced rider or instructor watching you if you are an inexperienced rider; never ride alone , have someone watch you and work on ground work in case you fall.
In order to keep the horse from turning around and biting you, if that is a problem for your horse, pull the reins over towards you so that there isn't enough slack on the other side for the horse to move it's head all the way over.
Be careful when mounting a frisky or green-broke horse, or a stallion. If this is the situation, you can always have another person with you to help
Always remember your equine common sense whenever handling a horse.
Horses have four gaits the walk, trot, canter and gallop which enables them to travel for many miles over varied terrain often with great stamina and speed. Each gait has the horses legs moving in a set order. The horses left hand side is known as their nearside with the foreleg being called the near fore and the hind leg being called the near hind. The right hand side is known as the offside with the foreleg called the off fore and the hind leg called the off hind.
The walk is a four time movement, which means that each leg moves on its own and in a set order. The horses near hind starts the pace off followed by the near fore, then the off hind with the off fore being the last leg to go down. When the horse is walking it should track up, this means that the hind hoof should fit into or in front of the hoof print of the forefoot. The average pace that a horse will walk is around 2 to 5 mph.
The collected walk is where the horse remains light and on the bit with even and active footfalls, the steps are shorter but with more engagement from the hindquarters to give a lively active march.
The medium walk is where the horse lengthens out the stride and covers slightly more ground than when in collected walk. The horse should still remain on the bit and with even footfalls and with a marching rhythm.
The extended walk is where the horse lengthens the stride out to the maximum that is possible. The horse remains on the bit and the steps should be active and even with the hind legs extending as much as the forelegs, the horses frame will lengthen slightly during extended walk.
The free walk is where the horse stretches down the rein to open out there frame. A light contact with the reins should be kept by the rider.
The trot is a two time movement, which means that the horse moves two diagonal pairs of legs at the same time. For example the horses near hind and off fore lift up off the ground at the same time as the off hind and near fore stay on the ground. On average horses trot around 7 to 10 mph.
The walking trot is the horses natural pace, in the working trot the horse takes even steps with each diagonal pair of legs. The horse should track up by placing the hind feet in the imprint left by the forefeet.
The collected trot is slightly shorter in the striding than the working trot but with a great deal more energy and the horse should remain light on the forehand and on the bit throughout with lively active paces and with engaged hindquarters.
The medium trot is where the tempo is slightly increased along with the length of stride. The horse should remain on the bit with the hindquarters well engaged to produce lively steps.
The extended trot is where the horses frame is asked to stretch and the length of stride asked to lengthen out. Both the forelegs and the hind legs should show even and clear lengthening. Great impulsion is required to produce true lengthened strides.
The canter is a three time rhythm. Depending on which rein you are on there is either left lead canter or right lead canter. For right lead canter the horses near hind starts followed by the off hind and near fore go down at the same time with the off fore being the last to go down and therefore the leading leg. For left lead canter the horses off hind starts the canter off followed by the near hind and off fore with the near fore being the last to go down and therefore the leading leg. On average horses canter between 10 to 17 mph.
Working Canter is where the horse picks up its own natural rhythm. There should be a clear three time rhythm and the canter should be active and purposeful.
Collected Canter is when the horse shortens the canter stride and increases the activity and impulsion of each stride whilst remaining on the bit and light in the riders hand.
Medium Canter is where the horse increases the pace, length of stride and activity of the canter footfalls. Three even beats should still be noticed but with more bend and energy from the horses joints. The stride is longer than the working but shorter than the extended.
Extended Canter is where the canter stride is opened out to its maximum length, there should still be a clear three beat rhythm to the stride with the hindquarters well engaged.
The gallop is the fastest of all the paces and is known as a four beat pace due to each of the horses legs striking the ground in quick succession with a moment of suspension in between each stride. The gallop progresses out of canter so depending on which canter lead you started of with will determine the order of footfalls. When a horse is galloping you will be able to clearly hear four distinct beats as opposed to just three when in canter. On average horses can gallop at around 35 to 40 mph. The footfalls for left fore leg leading would be off hind, near hind, off fore and the near fore, then the moment of suspension before starting again.
The halt is when the horse has stopped moving. A square halt is where the horse is standing still with the front and hind legs neatly positioned together.
The pace is used for harness racing. It is a two time movement where the legs on the same side move together as opposed to the trot where the legs move diagonally. For example the near fore and near hind move up off the ground together while the off hind and off fore stay on the ground.
HOW TO SAY I LOVE HORSE RDIDING IN DIFFRENT LANGUAGES http://www.howtosayin.com/i+love+horse+riding.html
Bulgarian: Обичам конна езда
Croatian: Obožavam jahanje
Czech: Miluju jízdu na koních
Danish: Jeg elsker ridning
Dutch: Ik hou van paardrijden
Finnish: i love ratsastus
French: i love équitation
German: i love Reiten
Greek: i love ιππασία
Hindi: मुझे घुड़सवारी प्यार
Italian: i love equitazione
Korean: 난 승마를 사랑하는
Norwegian: Jeg elsker ridning
Polish: I love horse riding
Portuguese: Eu adoro andar a cavalo
Romanian: i love călărie
Russian: Я люблю верховую езду
Spanish: Me encanta montar a caballo
Swedish: Jag älskar ridning
English: i love horse riding
May 20, 2009
May 18, 2009
Horses' hooves grow approximately 0.25 in a month, and take nearly a year to grow from the coronet band to the ground.
In the state of Arizona, it is illegal for cowboys to walk through a hotel lobby wearing their spurs
Cross-country jumps are marked with a red flag on the right side and a white flag on the left side; the horse has to jump through these two flags or it is considered out of bounds and you are disqualified.
A healthy horse should have a pulse of between 36 and 40 beats per minute while at rest
Arabians have one less rib, one less lumbar bone, and one or two fewer tail vertebrae than other horses.
Mr. Ed, the talking equine star of the 1960s television series, was a golden palomino. He learned an enormous amount of tricks for his role, including answering a telephone, opening doors, writing notes with a pencil, and unplugging a light. Apparently, Mr. Ed would occasionally have a fit of temper, as befitting his star status, and would stand stock still, wheezing and refusing to move.
7.1 million Americans are involved in the industry as horse owners, service providers, employees and volunteers. 3.6 million and 4.3 million of those participated in showing and recreation, respectively, with some overlap in cases of people who participate in both activities. 941,000 people participated in racing in either a professional or volunteer capacity. 1.9 million people own horses. In addition to the people actually involved in the industry, tens of millions more Americans participate as spectators.
The horse industry directly produces goods and services of $25.3 billion and has a total impact of $112.1 billion on U.S. gross domestic product. Racing, showing and recreation each contribute more than 25% to the total value of goods and services produced by the industry.
The industry's contribution to the U.S. GDP is greater than the motion picture services, railroad transportation, furniture and fixtures manufacturing and tobacco product manufacturing industries. It is only slightly smaller than the apparel and other textile products manufacturing industry. .
“If you want a kitten, start out by asking for a horse” - Anon
“The horse is God's gift to man”. - Old Arab Proverb
“Show me your horse, and I will tell you who you are”. - Old English saying
"The one great precept and practice in using a horse is this, never deal with him when you are in a fit of passion." Xenophon, The Art Of Horsemanship, 400 BC
Adult respiratory rate is 8-16 breaths per minute
A horse typically sleeps two and half to three hours a day
Horses younger than 4 years can concentrate for a maximum of 10-15 minutes
Horses lie down only about 43.5 minutes a day
Horses sleep longer in the summer than in the winter
A horse’s heart weighs nine pounds
The horse is a herbivorous mammal
All horses (including zebras) belong to the genus equus
Horses began to evolve on the American continent over 60 million years ago, they later died out and were reintroduced by Spanish settlers
A zedonk is the offspring of a zebra and a donkey
No two horses are identical
The left side of a horse is called the “near side” and the right side is the “off side”
A horse has approximately 205 bones
A horse is described as a ‘foal’ for its first year of life
Foals have milk teeth, which are replaced by permanent teeth around 3-5 years old
A horse’s teeth can be used to estimate its age
Horses generally dislike the smell of pigs
A female horse is called a ‘filly’
Horses are traditionally measured in ‘hands’, this was originally the width of a man’s hand and has been set at 4 inches
May 16, 2009
Each year, about 55,000 horses are ed by bands of thieves who often work one area or state then move on when authorities start to close in. Rustling horses is quick, profitable and dirty work. Most horse thieves swiftly unload their stolen animals at auction, where most of the creatures end up at slaughter.
Robin Lohnes, executive director of the American Horse Protection Association, and Amelita F. Donald, president and founder of International Equine Recovery Net, offer some suggestions for recovering your equine safely and quickly.
Steps to Take
Act swiftly. "When you find your horse is missing, don't let a nanosecond go by," urges Donald. "Every hour after the first 24 hours that goes by, the less likely your chances are of ever seeing that animal again.
Conventional wisdom about how to help your equine until the vet arrives has changed a lot in the past 10 years. Horse owners used to feel compelled to walk their horses until treatment. While some horses will want to move, others will not. Forcing a sick horse to walk around for a hour or more may tire the animal, making him more miserable and less able to recover. Some vets even recommend letting the horse lie down if he feels like it, so long as he does not roll. I prefer to keep my horse standing, but to not constantly walk him unless he feels like it. If you can’t stay with your horse, have someone watch him to make sure that he does not roll or become cast in his stall. While some owners may give pain medications such as Banamine to make the horse comfortable, this practice can mask symptoms of colic, making the doctor’s diagnosis harder. Ask your vet before administering any to a colicky horse. If your horse needs surgery, pain medication may be counter- indicated.
If your horse is hot and/or sweaty and the weather is agreeable, sponging or hosing with cool water can make him more comfortable. For a hot horse, concentrate the bath on the insides of the back thighs, throat latch, neck, chest, and belly. To reduce agitation, keep your horse near his stable mates in a quiet area while you wait. Continue to assess the colic symptoms every 15 minutes or so to be able to give your vet a full briefing. Horses with serious colic or twisted intestine will deteriorate rapidly, so observe the horse for increased agitation, pain, or rapid change in vital signs.
When the vet arrives, be sure to relate all of your horse’s symptoms, his recent activity, and his medical history if the vet is unfamiliar with the horse. Best of luck with your horse keeping, and may colic stay away from your barn this spring!
Apr 16, 2009
Filly - A young female horse, 4 years old or younger
Foal - A newborn or very young horse, male or female
Gelding - A male horse that has been castrated, or gelded
Mare - A mature female horse
Stallion - A male horse that has not been castrated
Dam - The term give to a mare when she becomes a mother
Sire - The term given to a stallion when he becomes a father
Apr 14, 2009
There are more than 600 Przewalski's horses worldwide.
When spoken to, horses distinguish tones rather than particular words.
The longest tail measured was 22ft long was grown by an American Palomino named Chinook
The longest mane was 18 ft long and grown by a Californian mare named Maude
Horses have "2BLIND SPOTS". One is directly behind them and the other is directly in front of them.
A horse's "HEART WEIGHS" about 10 pounds!
The world speed record for a horse is 43.2 mph, it was set by a four year old race horse named Big Racket.
Did you know that in the old black and white films, when the script said that a horse was to be shot, they really did the on screen?! Sad, huh? :( :( :( :( :( :(
A horse can see better at night than a human. However, it takes a horse's eyes longer to adjust from light to dark and from dark to light than a human's.
Adult female horses (mares) usually have 36 teeth. A mare may have up to 40 teeth if she happens to have any canine teeth, which is possible but less common. males have between 40 and 44 teeth.
Jan 25, 2009
Nov 23, 2008
2 Remove the rubber band, and tightly braid each saction. Tie with rubber bands. Tie yarn over the rubber bands, leaving long ends.
3 Thread the yarn througha larg needle and pull the ends up through the top of the braid, making a loop.
4 Roll up the braid by folding it in half again. Hold it in place by trying the yarn around it and knotting it. Cut offany excess yarn.
Nov 21, 2008
Sep 6, 2008
Sep 2, 2008
Aug 22, 2008
Once or twice a week, you should also graze your horses or give them fresh hay and water. They need the nutrients. To help your horse with growth and health, get a mineral block or "salt lick" for your horse. They come in many different flavors, so choose your pick.
Horses may have treats such as:
- Mints (Lifesavers)
- Sugar Cubes
- Salt Lick Candy
Remember not to feed them too many. It will make the horse sick!
HAVE FUN WITH YOUR HORSE!
Firstly: Do you know how to ride AND take care of horses? It might make things easier if you take lessons at a stable BEFORE buying!
WHAT HORSE? WHAT BREED? Depending on your height/Weight, you need to find a horse that would suit YOU! If you're a starter/beginner, you'll probably need a pony. When you think of ponies, you think of small horses, BUT ponies can be up to 14.4 hands high! Ponies are a little bit smaller than horses AND usually have a more gentle temperment. A good horse for, like, a 10-14 year old would be a welsh cob or quarter pony.
WHAT AGE? Well, most people think you need a young horse to "Grow up with" but, a horse around 5-12 years old would be perfect.
More will come, AND "Breed Files" the place to learn about all your favorite horses!